Colorado JP #29
Re: Colorado JP #29
Yeah that's Jeremy. He is the one that sold me the frame and really loves the Jurassic Park Jeep stuff.
He just opened his shop about a month or two ago.. so maybe he hasn't brought over all his stuff from his house.
He just opened his shop about a month or two ago.. so maybe he hasn't brought over all his stuff from his house.
1971 Volkwagen Beetle - 1993 Jeep Wrangler Sahara - 1998 Dodge Neon R/T
http://www.GBFans.com/ - http://www.JurassicJeep.com/
http://www.GBFans.com/ - http://www.JurassicJeep.com/
Re: Colorado JP #29
Well I went back and picked up all his seat belts and the roll bar padding. The driver seat belt I had replaced with a junkyard one, was just too faded and in general ratty... and my roll bar padding was in sad shape from how much the top had been off before I got her...
But I wont be installing any of the new interior parts until I paint, no use taking everything out twice.
But I wont be installing any of the new interior parts until I paint, no use taking everything out twice.
1993 Sahara - JP29 - Denver, CO
Re: Colorado JP #29
Alrighty Then! Another weekend...
As I mentioned earlier I had a lot of stuff addressed by a mechanic when I first bought the jeep. But I had skipped the Rear Main Seal. So Friday I headed to the parts store and got everything I would need + a new oil pump to do the rear main seal.
I have the haynes manual, but mainly I followed this tutorial: http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811 It was very good, and the only thing I used the haynes for was torque specs on the bolts.
Here I have dropped the oil Pan. Notice how covered in muck, and grime this thing is. The PO must have never taken care of any of the leaks that developed over the years in anywhere close to a timely manner.
I took a little break after this, to go pick up...
**Backup up to friday just before hitting the sack... I decided to check craigslist, even though the only things left lightbar and I kinda want full doors for the winter... BOOOM!!
3 Piece Lightbar! $40!!! even cutting it down if it's too tall big deal at that price!
Back home and I continued with the main seal. Note: The instructions on the walkthrough included removal of "main bearing cap brace" My engine did not have one of these... I got the main seal out, lubed the bearing, used the special anerobic rtv on the rear bearing cap, lubed the new main seal, reinstalled the rear bearing cap.
Cleaned up the oil pan mating surfaces, the original cork gasket, was still on there, so either it's never been off, or it was off so long ago that people still used the original cork ones. My bet never been off before. Got pissed off at my torque wrench as it didn't click and I overtightened a bolt on the oil pan... You know when it is less than 10 ft lbs on a bolt they should almost just say lightly hand tight.... After that I just trusted my own hand to not over tighten them. Luckily it is holding, even though I know it is partially stripped now... I think I am buying one of those inline digital ones cuz I'm sick of this piece o junk torque wrench.. powerbuilt(oriely store brand) - I would not recommend buying a spring torque wrench from.
As I mentioned earlier I had a lot of stuff addressed by a mechanic when I first bought the jeep. But I had skipped the Rear Main Seal. So Friday I headed to the parts store and got everything I would need + a new oil pump to do the rear main seal.
I have the haynes manual, but mainly I followed this tutorial: http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811 It was very good, and the only thing I used the haynes for was torque specs on the bolts.
Here I have dropped the oil Pan. Notice how covered in muck, and grime this thing is. The PO must have never taken care of any of the leaks that developed over the years in anywhere close to a timely manner.
I took a little break after this, to go pick up...
**Backup up to friday just before hitting the sack... I decided to check craigslist, even though the only things left lightbar and I kinda want full doors for the winter... BOOOM!!
3 Piece Lightbar! $40!!! even cutting it down if it's too tall big deal at that price!
Back home and I continued with the main seal. Note: The instructions on the walkthrough included removal of "main bearing cap brace" My engine did not have one of these... I got the main seal out, lubed the bearing, used the special anerobic rtv on the rear bearing cap, lubed the new main seal, reinstalled the rear bearing cap.
Cleaned up the oil pan mating surfaces, the original cork gasket, was still on there, so either it's never been off, or it was off so long ago that people still used the original cork ones. My bet never been off before. Got pissed off at my torque wrench as it didn't click and I overtightened a bolt on the oil pan... You know when it is less than 10 ft lbs on a bolt they should almost just say lightly hand tight.... After that I just trusted my own hand to not over tighten them. Luckily it is holding, even though I know it is partially stripped now... I think I am buying one of those inline digital ones cuz I'm sick of this piece o junk torque wrench.. powerbuilt(oriely store brand) - I would not recommend buying a spring torque wrench from.
1993 Sahara - JP29 - Denver, CO
Re: Colorado JP #29
That's amazing that you don't have to pull the transmission, but instead pull the oil pan. I've never heard of doing it like that.
1971 Volkwagen Beetle - 1993 Jeep Wrangler Sahara - 1998 Dodge Neon R/T
http://www.GBFans.com/ - http://www.JurassicJeep.com/
http://www.GBFans.com/ - http://www.JurassicJeep.com/
- jeepnrover
- Posts: 103
- Joined: March 3rd, 2010, 12:34 pm
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Re: Colorado JP #29
On a slight tangent, what's the make/model on that nudge bar on the Magnum Boomer? My mom has a Magnum, and we live in deer country...Boomerjinks wrote:Obligatory photo dump from Sam's shots. Logan's pictures will be coming soon.
1991 Islander Edition
1971 Stimson Safari 6
1971 Stimson Safari 6
Re: Colorado JP #29
well fudge... oil drops on garage floor this morning.... NOT a happy camper....
You have to pull the oil pan on the 4.0 because the lower portion of the rear main seal is what the oil pan seals to.
Ugh.. so pissed right now.... Im wondering if I didn't screw myself... I had applied the anearobic sealer to the rear seal cap, and then I started to install it, but then, remembered I didn't put some oil on the bearing, so I pulled it off, and put on some oil on the bearing and reinstalled... I wonder if I shouldn't have scrapped off the rtv , and reapplied..... it was only up there a moment, and not torqued down....
You have to pull the oil pan on the 4.0 because the lower portion of the rear main seal is what the oil pan seals to.
Ugh.. so pissed right now.... Im wondering if I didn't screw myself... I had applied the anearobic sealer to the rear seal cap, and then I started to install it, but then, remembered I didn't put some oil on the bearing, so I pulled it off, and put on some oil on the bearing and reinstalled... I wonder if I shouldn't have scrapped off the rtv , and reapplied..... it was only up there a moment, and not torqued down....
1993 Sahara - JP29 - Denver, CO
- ratrace427
- Completed JP Jeep
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Re: Colorado JP #29
I have had almost the same regrets when doing a job like that. How well did you clean everything? Sometimes the oil residue will drip for a few trips. I have told my self that on several jobs and ended up being right once. What about turning the seal so that the two halves do not line up with the main cap? Was it installed where the main cap flats and the seal sections meet? I did it that way my first time and it leaked. I had to go back and do it again. It sucked but at least i know not to do it that way again.
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Re: Colorado JP #29
Im gonna watch it for a few trips and hope it goes away, some on the jeep forum have made hints that it takes a bit for the seal to really seal well, and some have commented it may be residual from when it was leaking... It wasn't much... so it could be either of those.
1993 Sahara - JP29 - Denver, CO
Re: Colorado JP #29
If its only drips, I wouldn't worry about it.
Just drive it around the block a few times, park it for a few hours and check.
An actual leaking rear main seal will be much more than a few drops. As for the RTV, you shouldn't have to have redone it if it wasn't torqued down. The anerobic sealant, I might say yes to though.
Just drive it around the block a few times, park it for a few hours and check.
An actual leaking rear main seal will be much more than a few drops. As for the RTV, you shouldn't have to have redone it if it wasn't torqued down. The anerobic sealant, I might say yes to though.
1971 Volkwagen Beetle - 1993 Jeep Wrangler Sahara - 1998 Dodge Neon R/T
http://www.GBFans.com/ - http://www.JurassicJeep.com/
http://www.GBFans.com/ - http://www.JurassicJeep.com/
Re: Colorado JP #29
Drove it a bit yesterday morning after I posted...
This morning ZERO drips.... YEAH!!!! so roughly 20 hours of sitting and not a drop. HAPPY DANCE
After spending 5-6 hours under the jeep, I freaked a bit .. I think it's all good, but I'll keep watching it all week, just in case.
This morning ZERO drips.... YEAH!!!! so roughly 20 hours of sitting and not a drop. HAPPY DANCE
After spending 5-6 hours under the jeep, I freaked a bit .. I think it's all good, but I'll keep watching it all week, just in case.
1993 Sahara - JP29 - Denver, CO
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