CT JP15 -
- jbc455
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 363
- Joined: January 24th, 2013, 10:29 am
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
Light bar looks pretty correct to me.
1994 Wrangler SE 4.0, automatic, 150k and still going strong.
- raptorwrangler
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 206
- Joined: September 29th, 2010, 11:51 pm
- Location: Oklahoma City
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
The light is not technically correct, because the mounting plates are rounded at the top. I'm not sure when they changed the light bar, but mine is a 1993 light bar with the rounded mounting plates. That being said, if you were REALLY wanting screen accuracy, you could have one fabricated.
-1995 Jeep Wrangler S................./‾‾‾‾\ □□□□
-2.5L 123hp............................../|‾‾|‾‾,[____],__
-Completed Conversion..............|!\\.|@|\-\--¬[□llllll□]-
...............................................-(o)------(o)--°-----)°-
-2.5L 123hp............................../|‾‾|‾‾,[____],__
-Completed Conversion..............|!\\.|@|\-\--¬[□llllll□]-
...............................................-(o)------(o)--°-----)°-
- fantomas
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 551
- Joined: December 14th, 2011, 1:46 am
- Location: Connecticut
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
My buddy is a welder so that's not a problem. For now, this light bar is perfect for me. My main goal right now is to get out of this god forsaken hell hole they call the Department of Motor Vehicles. Oh then finish replacing that leaf spring so I can have some fun driving around town today... I guess my MAIN goal in parts searches for now are the factory side steps. I bet that's one of this things jeepers throw away when they replace themraptorwrangler wrote:The light is not technically correct, because the mounting plates are rounded at the top. I'm not sure when they changed the light bar, but mine is a 1993 light bar with the rounded mounting plates. That being said, if you were REALLY wanting screen accuracy, you could have one fabricated.
- jbc455
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 363
- Joined: January 24th, 2013, 10:29 am
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
I've seen more side steps for sale than Sahara seats or light bars. Luckily you don't need either of those.
Rounded mounting plates? Can't believe he'd be that picky about those being incorrect with the thing having that cool 4" lift.
Rounded mounting plates? Can't believe he'd be that picky about those being incorrect with the thing having that cool 4" lift.
1994 Wrangler SE 4.0, automatic, 150k and still going strong.
- fantomas
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 551
- Joined: December 14th, 2011, 1:46 am
- Location: Connecticut
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
Well, keep an eye out for the side steps!jbc455 wrote:I've seen more side steps for sale than Sahara seats or light bars. Luckily you don't need either of those.
Rounded mounting plates? Can't believe he'd be that picky about those being incorrect with the thing having that cool 4" lift.
I'm seriously debating going back to a stock height, or maybe 2" lift. Although after replacing that one leaf spring, I'm not incredibly excited about doing it another 4 times.
- fantomas
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 551
- Joined: December 14th, 2011, 1:46 am
- Location: Connecticut
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Re: CT JP??
Well, this week I purchased an "OEM style" front bumper from JCWhitney for $60 shipped (sans horns), and today I I met up with someone from craigslist for a pair of factory running boards for $75. He threw in all 4 factory fenders flares and a factory rim with a brand new Goodyear Wrangler tire (way too undersized for what I have on there now, but would probably make an okay spare along with a can of fix-a-flat)
Now, as far as I can tell, it's the factory hood (judging by the pin striping). The strange thing is it doesn't have the windshield tie down points (well, it has the center one). Where the tie down points belong, there is a single hole. Inside the driver's side hole (marked with a green box) there is a rubber bushing of sorts. Passenger side (red box) is missing the rubber piece.
Anyone have any idea why this is? I think the TJ's are like this, but I can't figure out why this one is like it. The only possible explanation I can think of is that it was a mid year change for the '95 but that actually makes no sense if you think about it (middle of a model's 8th year and they change parts on it?). Jeep was purchased 9/21/1995 for $22,020 (fully loaded). I can't find the MSRP for the '95 Saharas ANYWHERE so I can't even deduct if it had been sitting on a lot somewhere collecting dust..
Now, as far as I can tell, it's the factory hood (judging by the pin striping). The strange thing is it doesn't have the windshield tie down points (well, it has the center one). Where the tie down points belong, there is a single hole. Inside the driver's side hole (marked with a green box) there is a rubber bushing of sorts. Passenger side (red box) is missing the rubber piece.
Anyone have any idea why this is? I think the TJ's are like this, but I can't figure out why this one is like it. The only possible explanation I can think of is that it was a mid year change for the '95 but that actually makes no sense if you think about it (middle of a model's 8th year and they change parts on it?). Jeep was purchased 9/21/1995 for $22,020 (fully loaded). I can't find the MSRP for the '95 Saharas ANYWHERE so I can't even deduct if it had been sitting on a lot somewhere collecting dust..
- jbc455
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 363
- Joined: January 24th, 2013, 10:29 am
- Location: San Jose, CA
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
From Wikipedia (I know, not the best resource)...
There were no 1996 model year Jeep Wranglers. YJs produced in early 1996 were sold as 1995 model years, but featured a few new parts not seen on any earlier YJ. This included the new TJ bumpstops on the hood (rubber boots vs the traditional U-bars), reinforced tailgate hinges, and some even had rear TJ bumpers. Some also got the newly tuned I6 that was designed to run quieter in preparation for the TJ.
There's no reason some parts couldn't have made it on to late-year 1995s like yours.
There were no 1996 model year Jeep Wranglers. YJs produced in early 1996 were sold as 1995 model years, but featured a few new parts not seen on any earlier YJ. This included the new TJ bumpstops on the hood (rubber boots vs the traditional U-bars), reinforced tailgate hinges, and some even had rear TJ bumpers. Some also got the newly tuned I6 that was designed to run quieter in preparation for the TJ.
There's no reason some parts couldn't have made it on to late-year 1995s like yours.
1994 Wrangler SE 4.0, automatic, 150k and still going strong.
Re: CT JP??
jbc455 wrote:From Wikipedia (I know, not the best resource)...
There were no 1996 model year Jeep Wranglers. YJs produced in early 1996 were sold as 1995 model years, but featured a few new parts not seen on any earlier YJ. This included the new TJ bumpstops on the hood (rubber boots vs the traditional U-bars), reinforced tailgate hinges, and some even had rear TJ bumpers. Some also got the newly tuned I6 that was designed to run quieter in preparation for the TJ.
There's no reason some parts couldn't have made it on to late-year 1995s like yours.
the 96's were known as the mutt year they were still deciding how there going to be as the the TJ
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- fantomas
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 551
- Joined: December 14th, 2011, 1:46 am
- Location: Connecticut
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Re: CT JP??
Just a quick update. A few weeks ago it snowed about 6" and I couldn't even get the Jeep out of the driveway. 4WD was busted and it was pretty embarrassing just spinning the rear tires. Chalked it up to a leak in the vac system for the front axle actuator. Replaced that this week with a manual cable system so now I hopefully have 4WD working! Eventually I'm going to need to replace all the body mounts. One or two of the rubber mounts are completely missing.
Starting within the next few weeks I'm going to start stripping the interior to prep it for some sort of bed liner. I'll probably leave the interior stripped until I get the exterior painted. My father-in-law works at F40 Motorsports in Portland, CT so I'm not sure if he's going to have someone there paint it, or go paint it at his house or something. I'll do most of the prep work myself for the paint. Is there any harm in doing the prep (grease removal, sanding, etc) and not painting for 1-2 months? Or should everything be done pretty close together?
Also picked up a whip antenna for $4.77 out the door at Radioshack this week! I've been hunting on CL for months now looking for half doors that need to be repainted. Jeep doors do not last long at all there, and cost much more than I really want to pay. I was hoping there would be plenty available because of the winter, but no luck, and I'm most likely screwed because it's going to be slowly getting warmer again, so supply will definitely dry up.
Starting within the next few weeks I'm going to start stripping the interior to prep it for some sort of bed liner. I'll probably leave the interior stripped until I get the exterior painted. My father-in-law works at F40 Motorsports in Portland, CT so I'm not sure if he's going to have someone there paint it, or go paint it at his house or something. I'll do most of the prep work myself for the paint. Is there any harm in doing the prep (grease removal, sanding, etc) and not painting for 1-2 months? Or should everything be done pretty close together?
Also picked up a whip antenna for $4.77 out the door at Radioshack this week! I've been hunting on CL for months now looking for half doors that need to be repainted. Jeep doors do not last long at all there, and cost much more than I really want to pay. I was hoping there would be plenty available because of the winter, but no luck, and I'm most likely screwed because it's going to be slowly getting warmer again, so supply will definitely dry up.
- fantomas
- Completed JP Jeep
- Posts: 551
- Joined: December 14th, 2011, 1:46 am
- Location: Connecticut
- Contact:
Re: CT JP??
Today I picked up some half doors with spice uppers!
Started stripping them and there's a bit of rust on the bottom both. How do I go about repairing this? There's a lot of rot. I'm assuming water has just settled at the bottom of the doors and got stuck thanks to the weather stripping.
Also, what are peoples thoughts on "shaving" off the door locks for the half doors? I don't think I've ever locked the full doors with hard top once, and definitely don't see a necessity to on the half doors with the soft top. I don't even have the key for these locks....
Started stripping them and there's a bit of rust on the bottom both. How do I go about repairing this? There's a lot of rot. I'm assuming water has just settled at the bottom of the doors and got stuck thanks to the weather stripping.
Also, what are peoples thoughts on "shaving" off the door locks for the half doors? I don't think I've ever locked the full doors with hard top once, and definitely don't see a necessity to on the half doors with the soft top. I don't even have the key for these locks....
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